Unveiled at this year’s Watches and Wonders, Chanel’s Couture O’Clock collection melds its haute couture heritage with horological innovation inspired by the art of dressmaking

At the prestigious Watches and Wonders fair held in April, Chanel’s meticulously designed booth generated much buzz and conversation. How could it not? As visitors entered the space — and there were certainly many queueing up to go in — they were greeted by a stunning golden needle, gently spinning on its own axis, completely unbothered by the activity around it. Its spinning movement reflected the hands of the clock; the needle symbolised the trade for which the house founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was most known: haute couture.

Bringing the Couture O’Clock collection to Watches and Wonders was a game-changing move for the brand’s ever-growing watchmaking studio, which didn’t simply reproduce what Chanel was sending down the fashion runways. Instead, they referenced the very origin of the couture pieces: the atelier where those garments are made. In 1918, Mademoiselle Coco designed and debuted her first haute couture collection at 31, Rue Cambon in Paris.

Mademoiselle Prive Pincushion

The iconic address still exists today as the location of the flagship Chanel boutique, the haute couture atelier and Chanel’s restored apartment. Couture dummies, scissors, measuring tape, thimbles, bobbins, needles and pins — the tools of daily work in Rue Cambon — are ingeniously transformed into wristwatches, cuff watches, necklaces and even an automaton clock that was unfortunately sold before the fair began. Each piece in this collection, which are powered by high-precision quartz movements, is a wearable jewel crafted from gold and set with precious stones, showcasing the luxurious blend of watchmaking and jewellery savoir-faire.

The Mademoiselle Prive Pincushion is a good starting point for Couture O’Clock and draws direct inspiration from this indispensable tool in any dressmaker’s kit. The detailed motif inspired by pins embedded in a pincushion enhances a range of accessories including cuffs, necklaces and rings. Remarkable for both aesthetic appeal and complex craftsmanship, each of the dials used in this series is encased in convex crystal, adorned with haute couture symbols and crafted with materials like gold, diamonds, mother of pearl and onyx.

Première Ruban Couture Watch

Drawing from the imagery of the bobbins that hold thread in a sewing machine, the 18-carat gold Bobbin Cuff Couture features a dial cleverly hidden beneath an emerald-cut yellow sapphire, surrounded by a graphic pattern of interlocking lines dotted with diamonds. The precision and attention to detail in the design and function exemplify Chanel’s commitment to luxury and innovation.

The Thimble Long Necklace Couture is an elegant sautoir that cleverly incorporates a watch dial within the base of a thimble, snow-set with diamonds and made from 18-carat yellow gold. The necklace itself adheres to the aesthetic of a traditional long necklace, yet each element, from the chain to the dial, is meticulously set with diamonds, blending functionality with extravagant design. Similarly, the Safety Pin Necklace Couture redefines an ordinary object into a statement piece of luxury. The safety pin, an everyday sewing necessity, is transformed with a snow-setting of diamonds and an integrated watch dial, merging practicality with Chanel’s iconic elegance.

Safety Pin Necklace Couture

Lastly, the Premiere Ruban Couture watch features a tape measure motif on a double-wrapped black and gold leather strap, with a charm depicting Mademoiselle Chanel herself, adorned in yellow gold and black lacquer set with a diamond. This piece not only tells time but also tells a story of fashion’s evolution from the tailor’s table to the wrists of the elite.

Chanel’s Couture O’Clock collection is more than just a series of timepieces; it is a celebration of the fashion house’s legacy, a tribute to its roots in haute couture, and a bold step into the fusion of artisanal watchmaking and jewellery design. It epitomises the transformation of the ordinary into the extraordinary, proving that in the world of luxury, even the smallest details can inspire grandeur. This collection not only respects the traditions of the past but also pushes the boundaries of what is possible in design and technology, marking a new chapter in Chanel’s storied history.